You can buy pre-flared sections of line, and bend them to fit, or you can buy bulk line and flare nuts from the dealer, and use a flaring tool to make your own lines, then bend to fit.
I bought brake line and flare nuts locally from the VW dealer, they order the line in a 5 meter roll, and sell it by the meter. My dealership wanted $8.25 a meter, and $2.95 per flare nut. For my project, I ordered 2 rolls, and 4 flare nuts.
I also had to borrow a cheap little pipe cutter (from my father, but that was YEARS ago, so I suppose "steal" would be more accurate!), buy a cheap($5) pipe bender, and buy a ISO Bubble Flaring Kit, and the cheapest I found it was at JC Whitney, for $43.
For a larger resolution picture, so you can read the instructions on the box lid, click HERE.
Here is a pic of the end of a line that has been broken in half...
Insert the pipe in the pipe cutter, fitting the pipe between the 2 rollers, and tighten the finger wheel down a little, so the cutting wheel contacts the pipe. Spin the pipe or the cutter around the pipe 2 or 3 times, and then turn the finger wheel a little more, then spin the tool again, increasing the pressure slightly each time you tighten the finger wheel. This keeps the cut clean and keeps the pipe from crushing...
After a few cycles of this, your pipe will snap cleanly in two, and you'll be left with a male looking end that looks like this...
Now, take the de-burring tool, and run it in the end of the pipe. The tool will cut (at an angle) the inside of the pipe. Do this until you are about half way through the pipe wall. For example, lets say the pipe walls are 1/4" thick (huge brake line!), you'd de-burr the inside until the walls were 1/8" thick. The end will look like a female type end, like this... (yes, the tool is well rusty, it has been years since I've messed with it, and I didn't store it protected with any oil, so, there you have a prime example of tool abuse!)...
Now, insert the tubing into the clamp bar, exposing a few millimeters of piping above the clamping bar. The kit I got has a little wrench in it with a cut-out showing how much you should expose.
Take the flaring press tool, fit it over the clamping bar, and fit the tip into the pipe end, and start cranking down on the flaring press tool, until the tip is flat against the bar, so you can't see any tubing
Back the flaring press tool up, remove it from the bar,
loosen the wing-nuts on the bar (when you clamp the pipe, tighten the nut
closest to the pipe first, and remove it last), and remove the pipe. The tip
used in the kit was the 4.75mm tip...
Did you remember to put the flare nut onto the line before
you flared it?
DOH!!
Don't forget to slip the flare nut onto the line before
you flare it!
Once it is all said and done, this is what you should end
up with...the one with the flare nut on it is a factory VW flaring, the
other one is mine. You can see the crimp marks in the line I did: The pic
makes it look like the end of mine is deformed, but that is the textured
plastic bench top that makes it look like that...
Here is another view, you can see the mating surface of the line matches the VW line in size and angle, so it makes a perfect seal. The bubblegum scented gloves are not needed (got them from brother who tattoos in them)...
Here is another pic, comparing a VW flare and one I did, from the old page, the line I used in this pic is the green VW stuff from the dealer, and it shows the angled contact face better....
I think the kit I have is a rather cheap one...the tip, when you crank it down on the pipe, should sit flat on the bars, but mine sits at just the slightest angle, which I think keeps it from making a perfectly flat-bottomed flare...not that it would hinder the union or seal any, it just ain't as purty I guess.
Here are a couple pics from the old page, they show a cheap $5 pipe bender, and the flare nut wrench, which is strongly suggested if you need to loosen or tighten any flare nuts. If you have it, undercoating wax on the unions protects them until you need to work on them again.
Keep in mind when working with the brake lines, keeping
them clean is 100% essential. Having any of those shavings left in the line
could spell bad news later on.